japan
Oddly enough, it has been just under a year that I was exploring Japan - taking in the sights, sounds and atmosphere.
This 2:56 video summarises my experience of Japanese culture, its people, well preserved traditions and natural landscape this country has to offer.
I hope you enjoy!
So few places in the world integrate so beautifully and harmoniously with nature. Aoyama Flower Market is one such place that does all of the above. Although, this comes as no surprise particularly given the painstaking care taken by the Japanese to sculpt and create gardens of zen.
The ambiance and atmosphere is both calm and friendly and you can browse the flowers at your complete leisure. It is a little further to the back of the Flower Market that you become aware of the Tea House, the hanging baskets and the people.
Wait times to this beautiful Tea House vary depending on the time of day, however it's a complete pleasure to sit among the flowers and wait for tea time. It's a place of communal recluse for both tourists and locals alike, the space of which beautifully resembles a greenhouse.
Flowers are organised in colour combinations, ranging from sweet peas to tulips and orchids. Even little cacti sit together on shelves next to terracotta pots and jars. Pre-made bouquets are available to take home, or if you require a particular arrangement you are free to pick and choose.
Floral features of the week adorn the tables within the Teahouse. During this particular time, the flower of the week was the humble tulip, of which sat along tables in rows of sweet orange and along the window seats in pure white.
Vines and hanging plants sit from baskets and pots in the ceiling, acting as both art installation and curtains.
It was approximately 7.30pm by the time I decided to settle for a bite to eat. Bells jingled on the teahouse door and I was greeted by a smiling waitress. She showed me to the tables on the side of the teahouse and I was provided with an English menu that offered a range of blends with herbs, seasonal ingredients and floral notes. The comprehensive menu offers more than just tea, with desserts, meals and open sandwiches for your choosing.
Wanting something light, I chose the Refresh Blend for 810Y. I couldn't quite afford to relax too much otherwise I may not have made it back to my apartment by myself. With a blend of rosemary, spearmint, applemint, lemonbalm and lemongrass, the Refresh Blend was a soothing and uplifting option.
The uniquely shaped pot came out, accompanied with a clear glass cup and a small hour glass. I was given instructions not to drink the tea until the sands had run through the hourglass completely, to allow for it to steep.
It was such a conscious way in which to make you pause. Particularly when travelling you find very little time to slow down to fully soak in all of the experiences around you. As Jason had left in the afternoon and Jamie had left a few hours before, I was my own company. The sands trickled through and I found myself stopping, taking time to reflect on my trip and observe the people around me. A little while after, the tea was ready to be poured.
Almost perfectly timed, the staff handed me a plate of fruit toast that I had ordered. The bread was dipped in a thin layer of batter, each slice perfectly soft, fluffy and mellow on the inside, with just the right amount of crisp on the outside.
Orange syrup that consisted of a mix of cointreau and sugar was available to be drizzled generously atop the dollop of fresh cream, scattering of nasturtium and finely sliced almonds. It was so delicious and for me, it was dinner. If not for the flowers, the very atmosphere and ambiance of the Teahouse, then the French toast was enough to make me return.
Details down to the flowers with the receipt
Aoyama Flower Market Teahouse is certainly a beautiful gem to be visited in Tokyo. Although the winter weather was nothing short of cold, Aoyama Flower Market Teahouse was and is a place where you will always be warmly welcomed. Idillic for a visit by yourself, or with a loved one or your girlfriends, it's a charming place to rejuvenate the heart and mind.
Aoyama Flower Market
5-1-2 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku
If you'd like to visit a few more places in Tokyo - have a peak at my Tokyo Food Guide!
I feel as though at least sixty percent of my posts are about Japan - I just have so much to write and show you all about it! It's quite obvious that I miss it a lot and it's easily one of my favourite countries to visit due to the people, food and sights. It's an all encompassing country. Each time I go back I always learn and explore something new and fascinating.
We had landed at Narita and spent four days in Tokyo before travelling to Osaka via Shinkansen. We were intending to visit a few cities in Japan however not enough to warrant the 7 Days Japan Rail (JR) Pass. The pass itself gives you access to all trains on the JR Line and the JR Line Shinkansen (Bullet trains), but we were comfortable with our Suicas (similar to the Perth SmartRider but much cuter) and irregular train ticket stubs.
You can opt for a 14 day and 21 day JR Pass if you're travelling for a considerable amount of time, but note that not all train lines throughout the country are JR Lines and you may find yourself having to resort to another type of train ticket. Note that it can only be purchased outside of Japan. JTB Australia is a good source of information and can help you out with the purchase.
Be aware that although the Shinkansen may connect you to the necessary cities in a quick and fuss free manner, it can easily cost two hundred dollars. Weigh up the pros and cons of Shinkansen travel and optimise your planning around it! From Tokyo to Osaka it cost us $167.92 for a one-way Shinkansen ticket which we purchased at Tokyo Station in Marunouchi the night before. It made sense for us to do so and we of course reserved ourselves seats in the smoke-free cabin.
Tokyo Station
The next morning we found ourselves loading our suitcases and once packed, Anthony and Jason pushed them into the tiny elevator fit for two people in order to send them down the four flights of stairs. Lisa and I received them on the ground floor, calling out to the boys and sending the elevator back up for the next round. What was a bit of a joke a few days before became a practicality.
We laced up our sneakers, popped the key of the Airbnb back in its hiding spot and pushed our suitcases across the road to the nearest taxi. Soon, we were off to the same train station we were at the night before. We boarded the Shinkansen, found our seats and squashed our luggage in the space between our legs and the seat in front of us.
The softest swiss roll you will ever eat
Waiting at the platform
Getting a few supplies from Kiosk
Slightly squashed legs but comfortable seating
As per usual, a train attendant came past with a trolley full of snacks and drinks. She wheeled the trolley through the aisle and a ticket inspector followed her to review the ticket purchases. A few naps and packets of Calbee later, we heard the announcement for Shin Osaka. Be aware not to miss your stop, as you'll go quite a bit further than you'd expect - given it is a bullet train! You cannot liken it to missing one stop on the Perth railway network.
Coming out of Shin Osaka Station we were met with a sea of taxis and directed to a line of people. Turnover was fast enough, and an elderly taxi man wearing a suit and bow tie greeted us and proceeded to pack our suitcases. Jamie, Anthony and Lisa were then off, with Jason and myself following behind them. Our taxi drivers somehow took different routes and Jason and myself ended up reaching our Airbnb before them.
Shin Osaka Station Taxi Rank
Although the taxi drivers were confused by the address of the apartment, we found it in the end with some handy navigation from Google Maps and the taximan's knowledgeable friend on speed dial. Two secret 'dead drop' like envelopes after, we had the keys and headed up to our respective apartments.
Osaka is a big city and has a wealth of accommodation to choose from. As we were a travelling group of five it became much easier to book Airbnb. We happened to come across two apartments within the same building under the one listing. I could not recommend Tom and Meli's apartment enough. I mean, they had heated floors and the fancy Japanese toilet that lights up when you approach it.
Technology aside, it was well located - about a two minute's walk from the nearest subway station (Daikokucho) and so well equipped. The bathroom and toilet were separate (this makes such a huge difference) and it came complete with a washer, dryer and pull out sofa bed.
After a little apartment reconnaissance and comparison, we readied ourself for a night of exploring of the nearby Dotonbori strip. Dotonbori is incredibly popular and was so full of people for Christmas Day. As a general rule it's really quite busy but you can understand why once immersed in the food, sights and sounds. It is no wonder that Osaka is considered to be Japan's kitchen as the number of food stalls and restaurants were unsurpassable. We found ourselves walking down the strip, following the smells and flashing lights to an array of different street food.
Smoke entering the night sky at a meat stall
Smoke filled the air as stalls owners cooked beef outside and billboard crabs moved their arms and legs as a sign of attention. In addition to the lit up street, down alleyways and corners we found cherished local haunts - ramen, udon, okonomiyaki, taiyaki and the like. We even came across the world's second best melon pan bun - somehow modest?
We could not help ourselves but stand in line at the Takoyaki Museum, ordering a little boat of six pieces of octopus filled takoyaki. Foolishly we refrained from entering the museum, probably because we were just so overwhelmed with the amount of food there was to be had.
Lisa and I didn't mind one bit about waiting in line for the takoyaki, especially as we were completely mesmerised by the way in which the chefs spun the little dough balls around in their spherical moulds. Not wanting to overload our stomaches with too many delicious mouthfuls of octopus, bonito flakes, spring onion and okonomiyaki sauce, we only bought one boat. Don't be caught in the trap of stuffing a takoyaki into your mouth until it's relatively cool - too many burnt tongues and still I have not learnt my lesson. I'm sorry tastebuds.
It was in Osaka that we discovered a newfound love for Pablo. So much love was there for this cheesecake that we had it at least three times during our stay in Osaka. We were in Osaka for four days and almost averaged one of these cakes a day had they not been sold out on the one occasion we had lined up for it. Seriously. They're so good. I could almost do a whole post on them but here's the run down: You can choose the degree to which the cheesecake is baked - be it raw, medium or firm and it will have varying degrees of exploding cheesy custardness.
The original is amazing and the chocolate appears to be pretty good too but they only bake a limited number per day and are quick to be sold out. The cheesecake chain even have their own theme song which plays over and over as you wait in line for your cake. It's so addictive that Anthony was even singing it in the shower.
You can hear a snippet of it here (the theme song, not Anthony). Jamie has even tried to replicate this godly cheesecake but to no avail, so I suggest getting your hands on as much of this stuff as possible when you're in Japan and Osaka as it is Osaka's pride and joy for good reason.
Our first Pablo - little did we know it was going to be the end of us and the beginning of serious cravings
Osaka take their food very seriously and omiyage stores sell trinkets and trinkets of food related goodies. Omiyage is something like a souvenir or gift for friends or family, but as gift-giving is central to Japanese culture, it's a little more than that. An omiyage store in Osaka is unlikely to mirror an omiyage store in Tokyo.
It is often full of regional produce and crafted items only available to its location and prefecture. If you can't take the food home, opt for some fake food as it's very popular and an easy novelty item. When shopping for omiyage, pay attention to the expiry date as some items won't last for more than two weeks.
This guy is pretty famous and makes for a delicious caramel pudding
Finally it was time to eat a proper meal (we had nibbled at three or four different stalls down the strip) and headed for Warai, a famous Okonomiyaki Restaurant. Okonomiyaki is a savoury pancake, sometimes with noodle and other times without. Noodles are made fresh and the produce is selected especially for okonomiyaki purposes. They were crispy on the outside and deliciously soft in the middle. It's half cooked for you, allowing you to continue cooking your own pancake on the hot plate - mind the fingers.
Okonomiyaki ranged from octopus to beef, chicken and plain with noodles. The best of all the pancakes was the Warai's Star Recipe which was covered in strings of mayonaise and was beautifully sweet and savoury. Everything was so flavourful and delicious. We ordered a side of umeshu (plum wine) on the rocks and some fireballs to accompany our meal. Warm and buzzed from the flittering bonito and wine, we ventured out to the streets of Dotonbori again to let our stomachs digest before searching for dessert.
I had been hanging out to visit Don Quixote (or Donki for short), a huge contemporary store that sold everything from kitchenware to beauty products, snacks and adult party costumes. It's a busy and really cool place to shop and is open 24 hours a day. I really only wanted to visit for the multitude of socks I could purchase. I mean, how cute are these?!
We made our way around, past the canals and to the famous thirty-three metre Glico Running Man on the Ebisubashi bridge - a sign that was erected in 1935 as the mascot to the famous Japanese confectionary manufacturer, best known for Pocky pretzels (of which you can buy giant sized in Japan). Although it seems a little out of place amongst the other advertising, it is iconic and many people mirror the victory stance for a photograph.
Matcha
Custard
Matcha, custard, Mont blanc
Hot caramel
We walked all around the Dotonbori district and found ourselves in Shinsaibashi Suji, where even more food resided along higher end shops and restaurants. We came across a man selling piping hot sweet potato for 100Y and matcha filled cream puffs that could almost give Chu Bakery a run for its money. Safe to say we stuffed ourselves silly. We somehow managed to stagger our way back to our apartment with full bellies and happy food thoughts.
The walk helped us digest the last of the cream puffs and so collectively we thought it a good idea to dig into the Pablo Cheesecake. Lisa and Anthony later retired to their apartment and I watched Jamie make candy sushi from a box of candy food art we bought in Tokyo the day before. After taste testing ridiculously sweet candy that we could not actually digest, we went to bed, in order to fuel up for another day.
A couple of places we visited which you may feel inclined to also visit:
Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed this travelogue. More to follow!
Tokyo is so highly concentrated with restaurants, coffee stops and little hole in the wall food stalls that you would not ever have expected. It is so easy to miss the best and most noteworthy places due to the sheer amount of choice in Tokyo (not that it's a bad thing).
Below are a few key places for ramen, sushi and of course - coffee. It's an ever expanding list! Don't forget to click the name of the establishments, as it will link straight to their website.
Escape the hustle and bustle of Omotesando and visit a cafe of Yoshimoto Nara's artwork. Take a peek at the rooftop bar.
5F, 5-8-3 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku
Small but perfect is how to describe this mochi shop and their Japanese confectionary. Tokyo's most famous mochi shop has been operating since 1948.
5-7-19 Ginza, Chuo
A beautiful tea house hidden behind a blooming flower shop. An instant favourite with earnest service. Here you'll find yourself time and space to enjoy Tokyo and nature's splendours.
5-1-2 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku
Aoyama Flower Market Tea House
A new day starts here with a perfectly brewed coffee and humble message. Tea, scones and light buttery toast is also offered.
3-51-6 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku
Cafe Kitsune
The original morning requirements, bread and coffee, are staples at Bread, Espresso &. Get yourself a thick slice of French toast in a skillet and enjoy the ambiance.
3-4-9 Jingumae, Shibuya
A Japanese and European patisserie offering cakes, cookies, tarts and sweet spongey rolls. If you want to try a roll but not eat all of it, you can have a slice cut especially for you. Although, who could stop at one slice?
1-30-23 Inokashira, Mitaka
Cafe Kitsuné is a must visit, if not because the in-house baristas have been trained by Omotesando Koffee's Eiichi Kunitomo, then for the decor and fox shaped sugar cookies.
3-17-1 Minami, Aoyama
Best known for its animal donuts, Floresta offers organic indulgences if you're a little worried about your carb intake.
3 - 3, 4-14, Koenjikita
Cafe Kitsune
Sadaharu Aoki
Directly across from Yoyogi Park, Little Nap Coffee Stand will serve you an unassuming brew in a paper cup with a smile.
5-65-4 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku
Famed Rose Bakery carrot cake. Enough said.
6-9-5 Ginza Chuo
Sadaharu Aoki aims to create delicious but simple pastries with Japanese Flavours and French technique.
3-4-1, Marunouchi
Santa Monica Crepes
With over one hundred flavour combinations and choices, Santa Monica Crepes and its neighbours down Takashita Street are no-brainers. If you are feeling especially indulgent, get double the whipped cream. One crepe is enough to put you into a sugar coma.
1-16-8 Jingu-mae Shibuya-ku
My Neighbour Totoro cream puffs full of custard and cream and not to mention, so cute!
5-3-1, Setagaya-ku
Totti Candy Factory
With beans from Indonesia, Brazil and Ethopia, this Single Origin Coffee Shop is sure to delight.
5 Chome-17-13 Jingūmae
Eight layers of soft serve in varying flavours including grape, soda, banana, matcha, chocolate and strawberry balance in a single cone at Nakano Broadway.
5-52-15, Nakano Broadway
Billowing cotton candy clouds of three colours and flavours are often bought from this cute and mega pink store in Harujuku. Cake pops and other sweet treats are also taken away in magical bags full of sugar.
16-1 Jingumae, Shibuya
That conbini life cannot be overlooked, particularly as Japa's seemingly understated convenience stores have some of the freshest, tastiest and cheapest food on offer. Here you can find juice, fresh fruit, karaage, icecream, onigiri, sushi, small bento boxes, dumplings and even steamed cakes in addition to your typical sweets and chips. Don't forget to swing by:
For those that wish to experience a traditional multi-course degustation in Tokyo, Nihonbashi Yukari is the way to go.
3-2-14
Yuzu flavoured broth may seem unorthodox however it is a complete treat at Afuri for those citrus inclined. The noodles are top notch too.
1-1-7 Ebisu, Shibuya
Literally translating to "Lucky Adventurer", this small but popular shop specialises in tsukemen broth and regardless of what size bowl - be it small, medium or large, it will cost you all the same. Be prepared to want more.
2-14-3- Yoyogi, Shibuya
Tonkotsu ramen knows no bounds at Ichiran. Simple but delicious, this ramen restaurant covers the main staples and then some. Customise your sides, choose the way your noodles are cooked and if you'd like the green or white part of the spring onion.
1-22-7 Jinnan, Shibuya
Sure, Ippudo can be found in Sydney and Singapore, but it cannot be replaced for authenticity and quality as it stands in Tokyo. Pull up a seat, pick your side dishes and get ready to slurp hot and tasty ramen noodles in tonkotsu broth.
1-3-13, Hiro, Shibuya
Slices of marinated charshu pork, perfectly half-boiled egg still gooey on the inside and bamboo shoots sit in a beautifully arranged bowl every time.
1-18-5, Nishi-Shinjuku
Tsuta Ramen is the first and only Michelin starred Ramen restaurant in Japan. With rare blends of soy sauces, the shoyu ramen is deemed perfection. It is so popular that they now have ticket machines, so be prepared to get in line from 8am onwards if you're dedicated.
1-14-1, Sugamo, Tokyo
Genki Sushi
A change to the typical sushi conveyor belt, Genki Sushi delivers your food to you via trains. Just place your order through the touchpad.
24-8, Udagawacho Shibuya
Tsukiji's most famous sushi bar comes hand in hand with one hour waits and expertly cut sushi. The fatty tuna cannot be missed and the sweet soya is brushed onto each piece with the right amount of restraint.
4-16-10 Tsukiji, Chuo
Committed to perfecting the art of sushi - balance, taste and humidity, Sushi Kanesaka has not gained two Michelin stars for nothing.
8-10-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Jiro dreams of Sushi, so does Barack Obama and thousands of other die-hard sushi fans. Take cash and reserve in advance for a seat at the ten seat sushi bar of dreams.
Tsukamoto Building B1F, 4-2-15 Ginza
A three Michelin star sushi resutaurant innocently located in Roppongi may actually spoil your sushi tastebuds forever. Reserve at least four months out if you're dedicated. 1-4-5 Roppongi Minato
This home-made soba noodle shop is the perfect place to practice your slurping techniques, especially as slurping is seen to be a sign of pure enjoyment.
4-12-2 Meguro, Tokyo
Although Soranoiro has won awards for its chuka soba, many people tend to visit to test out the Special Vegetable Soba (Vegan), of which includes a healthy serving of carrot-based broth.
Fresh ingredients of your choice are presented to you prior to being coated in batter and fried. Tempura Masa (Tenmasa) uses a light oil and therefore the tempura has a particularly light and refreshing taste.
1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku
Anzu Ginza Mituskoshi
Tender, intense and flavoursome Joshu pork loin is served with the freshest and finest accompaniments, salads and rice. The loin is marbled, delicious and melts in your mouth.
4-6-16 Ginza
A restaurant in the middle of a suburban neighbourhood, marked only by a crescent moon window will serve you arguably the best tonkatsu in Tokyo as it specialises in pork and pork only.
2-24-9 Nishiazabu, Minato
Crispy and textured, kimukatsu is a little different to your regular tonkatsu restaurant. Thinly sliced pieces of pork loin are layered on top of each other to make one regular cut of tonkatsu.
4-6-5, Ebisu
Incredibly well known in Tokyo for being a restaurant in a public bath house, Maisen Tonkatsu is also known for its succulent tonkatsu and light but crisp coating.
4-8-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
One of the few restaurants in Tokyo with seating where you can watch the chefs prepare your tonkatsu dish.
1-1-2 Shimomeguro Meguro
This self-serve restaurant offers a range of hot and chilled udon noodles among the numerous toppings (buffet style) on offer. Mentsudan is also particularly well known for their tempura, too.
7-9-15 Nishishinjuku
For less than about $15 AUD, this fancy looking restaurant has all of your udon requirements covered. Fat, thing or medium noodles are cooked al dente. Note, English menus are not offered.
13-6-5, Ebisu Shibuya
Japan is the Land of the Rising Sun, but also the land of the rising fishermen. There are many places in Japan that showcase the amazing gastronomical culture, eating habits and culinary techniques of Japan. Tsukiji Fish Port Market in Tokyo, among Nishiki Market in Kyoto and Dotonbori in Osaka are key places to experience this.
A short walk away from Ginza, Tsukiji Fish Market is an incredible way to dive into Japan's food culture. As the largest seafood market in the world, there is no unfamiliarity with the masses of people or fish that pass through this district. Fresh fish is imported to Tsukiji and exported throughout the rest of Japan. The market is noisy and rustic, and equal parts charming. It is in short, a sensory playground.
Whether you're seeing tuna being sliced finely with a sharp blade, feeling smooth ceramic rice bowls, smelling smokey grilled octopus, hearing stall owners yelling out "いらっしゃいませ (Irasshaimase)!" as you weave through crowds of people, and whether you are tasting freshly fried tempura, almost all senses are engaged.
Tsukiji Market is split into two markets, the inner and the outer market. The inner market is full of hustle and bustle where serious wholesalers and owners of restaurants bide their time and bid on the freshest and highest quality fish available. They take their time to taste the meat, For a glimpse into the Tuna Auctions, you can only organise these through tourists groups or by getting there during the early hours of the morning.
You cannot participate in the auction but you are permitted to take photographs. Be aware to be on your best behaviour and don't seek to obstruct business as usual, as it is very much an important aspect of business for many high-end restaurants and sellers. Only an approximate 120 tourists are admitted per day with stakeouts beginning at 3am on occasion.
All of the bowls I didn't buy
Get up close and personal with the chefs, eat at the sushi bar and watch them masterfully prepare the fish for you
That aside, to me the outer market is where the action is. You'll often find restaurants tucked away in between stalls selling fresh produce or pots and pans. Sounds and smells fill the fresh air as restaurant owners advertise the catch of the day. Keep an eye out for the stools and high counter tops, shaded by a simple tarp. They aren't places to be overlooked and often specialise in particular foods.
Be prepared to weave through people and under stalls
The fish market sells more than just fish
We did not limit ourselves to eating at only a sushi restaurant at the market. I instantly gravitated toward these strawberry mochi and proceeded to have my best tastebud sensation that morning. One piece was Y300 but were a reasonable size. Flavours ranged from custard cream, mango, matcha, strawberry and red bean. The mochi was soft, the flavours subtle but tasty and the fresh strawberries were incredibly plump and juicy. I found myself constantly dusting mochi rice powder from my lips. You will find a couple of stalls like this scattered throughout the market.
Matcha strawberry mochi and custard strawberry mochi
We ate at Hokkushin Bussan, which specialises in exporting fish roe. Jason and I ordered kiwami-don, with a serving of medium fatty tuna, tuna, sea urchin, salmon roe, shrimp, chopped fatty tuna, scallop, salmon, squid, white fish and crab flakes. This dish was Y2280 (Approximately $27.00). The chirashi was the best way to sample the freshest and highest quality raw fish. We requested an extra serving of fatty tuna which had an amazing consistency and taste.
It was recently announced that Tsukji Market was moving to Toyosu in November 2016, approximately twenty minutes away by bus. I would recommend visiting the market while it is in its current location, if not to experience the atmosphere, admire the densely packed stalls, watch people weaving through lines to grab a seat at the sushi bar, then you must visit for the simple pleasure of eating high quality food.
Have a browse of the official Tsukiji Japanese Restaurant guide here for more food options, although in my opinion it's best to have a wander as you'll easily find some amazing food!
Japan has an incredible culinary landscape that is as diverse as the cities themselves. I hope you enjoy this compilation from my most recent trip to Osaka, Tokyo, Kobe, Hakone and Kyoto. Song credits: Shugo Tokumaru - Katachi.
Japan has an incredible culinary landscape that is as diverse as the cities themselves. As we travelled throughout the Kanto, Chubu and Kansai regions we were swept up in the glorious food that Japan has to offer. I hope you enjoy this compilation from my most recent trip to Osaka, Tokyo, Kobe, Hakone, Himeji and Kyoto.