Japan Visual Food Diary

Food is found everywhere in Japan. On main streets, down alleyways, at the peak of the tallest buildings, basements, underground passageways and located deep within the stations, there is always food to be had. Seats are placed at market stalls, restaurants look small but then open up to a vast space and delicious smells and for other places to eat - it's standing room only.

Everything is delicious, authentic and in some cases awesomely weird. An inconspicuous hole in the wall can present to you the most delicious bowl of ramen. Food can be bought through vending machines, department stores or using tickets and cool button contraptions. The quality of food is high, the smells are amazing and when compared to other large scale global economies, the food is extremely well priced. You can't go past the Japanese staples - ramen, izakaya, tempura, tonkatsu and sushi.  

Arashiyama

The district of Arashiyama is home to many small shops and restaurants - all of which are backed by an incredible and serene landscape. Vast and beautiful tree laden hills are the backdrop to a bustling town. The district itself is colourful, vibrant and full of culture. It's hard to believe that its locals aren't constantly pausing to point or gasp at the mountains in wonder. Take a walk across the bridge to admire the view and walk back again. 

Visit Tenryu-ji Temple, hire a kimono and spend the day adorned in silk. The Bamboo Grove is of course a must and if you are feeling energised enough - continue your walk up the hill to the monkeys, where you can spend an afternoon contemplating just how on earth the views of Kyoto are real. 

Gion

Gion is abundant with traditional wooden machiya merchant houses, and for many it is a tourist mecca, with foreigners wishing to catch a glimpse of geisha. However if you are only concerned with a red lipped lady in her kimono (be mindful when taking photographs of maiko and geiko, retain respect), you may end up missing the other beauty surrounding the district. And it is such a beautiful area to wander around, with the best time to visit in the evening.

The district of Gion is situated along the Kamogawa river. The streets are illuminated by dim lit lanterns outside the teahouses, beckoning in the evenings for customers. Vintage alleys are home to ochery (teahouses), small bars, restaurants and okashi shops. Gion Corner presents traditional shows and tea ceremonies reminiscent of the old Kyoto of the day. The building is noticeably iconic and is the perfect venue to experience a little Japanese culture. 

This district is an eclectic mix of old and new with buzzing bright lights and tall buildings. Shrines are scattered about street corners and vending machines located on every second street. What adds to the beauty of Gion are the people who are going about their lives after dark. Some sing tunes to themselves as they wait for the signals to turn green so as to cross the street. Others hurry into their homes set up along river banks, and amongst a crowd you can still spot beautifully dressed girls in kimonos. 

Little box cars zoom past you on cobblestone paths, and florists ride past holding bouquets of flowers, making deliveries past 7pm while other workers are busy bringing fresh produce for the next day's orders. When visiting we barely came across any tourists, but were instead swept up at traffic lights by the locals going about their evenings or returning home after a day of school.

The stone walk ways lead to traditional buildings which appear small at the front, however stretch far back and are full of treasures. Gion is also littered with modern buildings with European architecture, home to your more contemporary department stores. Another popular place to visit is the Hanami-koji Street that runs from Shijo Avenue to Kenning Temple. My favourite part of Gion is the Shirakawa Area which runs along the canal. The canal is lined with willow trees and restaurants that overlook it. 

Tip
Visit on an unsuspecting day, Tuesdays or Wednesdays will provide you with the quiet and romantic atmosphere that Gion exudes. Stick to the back streets, and if you're lucky, around 6pm you may see a maiko making her way to a show. 

Transport
Gion can be reached from Kyoto Station by bus - either 100 or 206, taking approximately twenty minutes. By train, take the Keihan Line and alight at Gion Shijo Station or take the Hankyu Line, get off at Kawaramachi Station and walk.

Autumn leaves, Shinjuku Gyoen National Park

With the fall of autumn leaves I thought it time to share a few photographs of the gold hues at Shinjuku Gyoen National Park. The maple trees are the prime attraction and blaze in colour. For a view of the park in Spring, along with tips on how to get to the park and admission times, read my previous post. 

Nishiki Market

The streets in Kyoto are magical. So too are the markets. Nishiki Ichiba is one such market. Known to locals as "Kyoto's Pantry", it hold true to its name. Narrow but lined with more than one hundred stalls and shops (most of which are food focused), Kyoto's Nishiki Market offers so much to wandering and hungry tourists. Running between Teramachi and Shinmachi, it is Kyoto's best and largest traditional food market. 

Wrapped up in a long passageway are the characteristic foods and delights of Kyoto which are locally sourced and produced. The atmosphere is busy but beautiful and the stalls even more so with the market filled with both tourists and locals walking through the traditional shotengai (shopping street). It is visited by thousands of people every day however remains neatly arranged, perfectly aligned and maintains a relaxing atmosphere, contrary to the common belief of noisy and chaotic market places. 

Good are arranged neatly, patterns of fabrics and fans scattered throughout. It's an authentic and enriching experience for senses. Some stalls sell takeaway foods like yakitori skewers or packets of rice and sashimi and there are a couple of sit down restaurants that can be found among the wagashiya-san stalls and the tofu and yuba shinise. You can't go past a lovely azuki bean and lotus cake, or of course the iconic Japanese mochi, hanami dango. Stop at a couple of wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) shops. Prices are a little more expensive than what you would pay for in the standard department supermarkets, but there is a definitive difference in taste, freshness and quality.

Wide eyes and an empty stomach are a prerequisite when walking through the market with many things to marvel, however don't touch the products or produce unless you're willing to pay for what you've touched. Many stall owners have a "you touch you buy" policy. Of course if there are store owners holding skewers of octopus or sweets, nudging you to have a free try, do take them up on their request because free food is good food and the food in Kyoto is amazing. Unlike other markets in Japan, it's acceptable to eat while walking through Nishiki markets. You'll be asked when you purchase if you wish to eat it now "Ima taberu", or save it for later. I suggest purchasing some as you eat and saving plenty for those late night hunger pangs.  

The best time to visit Nishiki is in the early morning (going early will beat the onset of crowds) or the late afternoon. Tourists tend to visit at lunch time and understandably so, but take this into account. Although we had visited the market about an hour before closing (not what we had intended) it was still fairly busy but just as beautiful. Not all of the stores were open and many were packing up after a long day that had begun before nine in the morning, but there was still plenty to see and eat. 

Strolling through the market we witnessed many owners packing up after a hard day's work, the fishmongers hosing down their stalls and those selling cakes urging people to purchase them for half the price as many cakes were to be eaten within the day. The takoyaki stall was still busy at work with a high demand of people seeking fresh octopus balls for an evening snack, so don't worry about missing out on at least having some food if you visit in the evening. 

Transport:
A short three minute walk from Shijo Station, take the Karasuma subway line. You could also take a walk from Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line. You'll find Nishiki and it's colourful glass ceiling, one block north and parallel to Shijo Street and west of Teramachi street, located between Kyoto Station and the Imperial Palace.

Admission and opening times:
Nishiki Ichiba is open from 9am to 6pm every day except Wednesdays and Sundays. Admission is free. 

Sunset over Tokyo

For a few brief moments, the sky is a deep hue of orange and pink every day. It's one thing to view a sunset at home but to experience the sun rising and setting across the world is just as awe-inspiring, if not more. The light illuminates Tokyo in a gorgeous spectrum of warm hues, with this particular view granted from the Tokyo Skytree. See if you can spot Mount Fuji.